Napoli There and Back Again

There are old romantic songs recited in the name of Napoli, a coastal city south of Rome. This was a bustling tourists haven some 40 years ago. A getaway from the hectic pace of Rome to the coastal paradise of Pompeii, Amalfi and Capri. The Neapolitanos are a bit notorious, but they are so deeply entrenched in Italian culture and history that it is nearly inseparable, even though Neapolitanos would think otherwise.

If you were to step into Napoli today, you wouldn't recognize it from its stories. The tourism is gone from the heart of the city. Its people struggle with the recession that hit much of Europe. Abandoned construction, and an aging infrastructure are the sights. Its corrupt and inefficient politics leave no outlet or solution, even though it remains one of the wealthiest cities in Europe.

Sanitation workers and the cities civic servants have largely abandoned its maintenance. Every inch of the central city is tagged with graffiti. Monuments and statues that once marked its rising influence are left disfigured.

However, its behind this thick veil of daunting city that its beautiful history is revealed. Travel to Pompeii to see the well preserved remnants of this ancient roman city.

Travel the coast and islands to find Procida, Ischida, and Capri.

Or you can head away from the city center to find its ancient underpinnings.

Those daring enough can find a trove of culture, history, landmarks and sights. Take in a pizza. Just keep an open mind.

Roma if You Want To

I stepped out of Roma's termini station, instantly greeted by chaotic streets and the steady flow of pedestrians from all regions of the world. Cheap pizza stands and knockoff designer bags laid out on the street form a tricky obstacle course along the hurried sidewalks. The infamous rotaries mark almost every square, forcing a dangerous game of pedestrian versus vespa.

This is not the elegance or beauty found in places like Firenze or Siena. This is 1950s New York City. A mix of locals pawing at the open wallets of tourists, and sharp dressed businessmen going about their business. The ideal romantic European city, this is not. Well, its hidden a bit.

Within the low rising boulevards lined with orange trees, you find the working class neighborhoods. Small areas squeezed between monuments and ruins. Restaurants not trying to grab a dollar from an eager tourist. Genuine food and people who call this bustling city home. This is the ideal that was made famous by Roman Holiday.

But Rome has its own charm in the hubris that built it. Kings, dictators, holy pontificates, French war heroes, charming republicans and crazier heads of state all built this city in a 3000 year long game of one-up-man-ship. From the early Grecian styled forums, to the over-embellished catholic-baroque churches; every leader managed to stamp their name on the city. In so managing to create a hectic but marveled capitol of the new and old world.

And nothing can quite describe what its like to stand, awestruck, by a basilica that has endured, and reinvented itself 2000 years over by the bright minds of Michelangelo and Bernini. Words can't express the feeling of standing atop an ancient city, whose remnant skeletons are lit by both led light and full moon.

I leave the eternal city for the southern home of my great grandfather. Enormous bag in hand, a little lost in thought from a good week. Memories of time spent in Rome made better by the people I spent it with.

Now It's Time to Say Goodbye to Tuscany

Typically I would write some elaborate story about the place I visited. I have written enough about the beauty of Tuscany, and doesn't need more framing for people to understand. My sum of experience here is tied up in a month I spent with a gracious family, helping out however I could.

It gave me the opportunity to be more immersed in the language, and culture. I learned about plant extracts, breads, local flora, and got to eat some excellent meals. I had good conversations about local politics, US military effect on Italy (and likely other parts of the world), and the general trajectory of the world and the burden my generation has to change course.

Most importantly, we were able to share experiences, skills, food and stories.

Instead of a narrative, I will end with a thank you to my new friends Alexandra and Michelangelo, and a handful of pictures I took while there.

Montalcino Man

Montalcino stands as a small city between Siena and Florence. Its significance to the area, however, is a testament to long disputed European territories and the many kings and wars started over the many resources Tuscany has to offer. The French, Holy Roman and Spanish Florence empires had all grown to claim the territory at some point. Siena, on the path of a major trade route between Rome and Florence had grown its own industrial kings. When the Spanish Tuscany forces wrestled Siena from Rome, the weathly tradesmen and kings holed up in Montalcino, occupying a castle, and successfully resisting for years. Eventually the Medici reclaimed the whole of Tuscany after the Spanish owed huge debts to the prestigious family. Their coat of arms are smattered all over this small walled city as a testament.

Its now known for its fine wines, as evidence of the many wine shops, tours and restaurants flaunting their prize wines. Likewise, the tourism brought by the wine is what keeps the economy alive. That's not to say this area is devoid of its own traditions.

When you walk the parameter of the city, you notice flags marking the districts and torch holders affixed to the old building walls. As it was explained, the city still holds annual competitions at the beginning of the hunting season. Similar to the Palio in Siena, this festival pits the city's marksmen again each other to prove the best shot. This is steeped in tradition, as the wild boar season brings in the regions most prized meat (which I tried in a small restaurant with spinach ravioli and house made salumi, peccorino and prosiccuto).

My visit wouldn't have been complete without ordering a few bottles, which my host was quick to help arrange. A successful wine shop manager walked me through their best reserve wines, allowing me to make my choices. The owner emerged into the shop, sharing a likeness in character, and voice to Giapetto from Pinocchio. His kindness offered a generous discount on the wine, and eventually led to a tour through the city to his wineshops and amazing apartment he had invested in.

I relate this because the city has grown to accept and hugely embrace the tourism, through welcoming kindness. The town holds its small city characteristics, but offers spoken English and a general openness to foreigners sometime taken for granted in the larger cities. This is a definite stop for anyone looking to see Tuscany as it was, and enjoy where its going.

Also it has the best gelato and cappuccino I've had so far.